It starts with a low rumble. As the noise grows louder, I shade my eyes and look up at the blue sky. Overhead, the roar approaches and its source comes into view—half plane and half boat. Floatplane near Friday Harbor, San Juan Islands I grew up in the California desert, and I still find floatplanes surprising. These amphibious planes often fly to the San Juan Islands near my home now in the Pacific Northwest. And whenever I see floatplanes, I think of a storied name in light

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